SEP 12 11 – 9:30 AM — More than 500 folks braved warm and sunny weather Sunday for the 15th edition of Feast of Fields, the major annual festival organized by Canadian Organic Growers (Ottawa chapter) at the Canadian Agricultural Museum.
Oops, for a moment there I forgot myself, being so used to whining about inclement weather over the years that has ranged from cold and overcast to wind, drizzle and rain.
But the celebration this year couldn’t have been finer, as 20 among Ottawa’s most talented chefs teamed with as many area organic growers to prepare myriad delicious morsels ranging from sliders to savoury soups, fresh fruit and salads. Through it all, I managed to sample the wares from 14 different chef-farmer stations before I was full and couldn’t take another bite (such being my ongoing burden of endless public duty).
“We really scored,” says Chris Penton, Feast of Fields co-ordinator in Ottawa.
“It could’ve snowed — you never know. I expect between 500 and 550 in attendance, of which 100 are tickets for sponsors and another 50 or so volunteers. The weather this year is obviously a bonus. And the agriculture museum has been fantastic by helping us with logistics like electricity, security, access to toilets, providing us a tent and access to the grounds at a reasonable rate,” Chris says.
“We were concerned there might not be enough space, but it turned out to be beautifully snug without being cramped. This is the best Feast of Fields in years.”
Above, the winning slider by chef/owner Arup Jana of Allium restaurant, paired with Willowpond Acres of Glen Robertson, Ont.
I agree with you on that, Chris.
Feast and Fields has had hits and misses since it was launched in 1996 on a wet and dreary afternoon outside the agricultural museum, at the Central Experimental Farm. Over the years its nomadic existence has seen it set up tents at Britannia Park, then Vincent Massey Park, and in 2010 at the Canadian War Museum, before coming full circle this year to its roots at the farm.
Chilled tomato and beetroot soup with summer veggie chutney, goat cheese and cider reduction drizzle by chef/owner John Taylor of Domus Café, teamed with Luxy Farms of St. Albert, who won Best Decorated Tent.
A good thing too, I say, because to me a celebration of the harvest in general and organic foodstuffs in particular doesn’t quite seem to mesh with public parks and wartime artifacts. Even better, with cattle corralled nearby and such visual props as fields of corn in the background, the idyllic farm offers plenty of free parking and easy access to public transit (for those who are inclined to the penned-in experience). Toss in warm temperatures and a smiling, sunny day and you have a recipe for a pefect afternoon of noshing superlative good eats — and good value, at $70 a ticket including admission to the museum.
From chef Charlotte Langley of Whalesbone Oyster House, pork liver mousse, head cheese, apple butter with sliced apple, onion on rye bread, teamed with Funny Duck Farms of Jasper, Ont.
Winning team this year for Best Decorated Tent was Luzy Farms with Daizy and Jonathan Näf of St. Albert, Ont., paired with chef/owner John Taylor of Domus Café. I especially enjoyed his chilled tomato and beetroot soup with summer vegetable chutney, made rich with a dollop of goat cheese. What really pulled the freshness of the vegetables and the richness of the cheese together was his Hall’s apple cider reduction, adding a tang and crisp note to the finish that balanced the whole thing.
I should note, too, that chef/owner Caroline Ishii of ZenKitchen, paired with Waratah Downs Organic Farm in Iroquois, had a popular (and satisfying) hot smoked corn and mushroom chowder garnished with a savoury herb biscuit. So popular, in fact, she went through her entire supply for 350 people in about one hour.
Green and yellow bean salad with fresh basil, green onion, brown butter/sherry based vinaigrette, and C’est Bon cheese from chef Trish Larkin of Black Cat Bistro, paired with Riverglen Farm of Ottawa.
The people’s choice award for Best Food was taken by Willowpond Acres of Glen Robertson, Ont., with Glen Robertson, Andre and Marie Coté, paired with chef/owner Arup Jana of Allium restaurant. Arup served a thick and juicy grass-fed beef slider with smoked chili, braised brisket, chipotle aioli, corn relish, heirloom tomato, relish, and — get this — hand-made potato chips. Not the easiest dish to get your mouth around, but well worth the effort!
If I was handing out a Good Garlic Award — there should always be an honourable mention for garlic — I’d definitely pin my star to the team of Aubin Farm with Tim and Roshan Aubin of Spencerville, paired with chef/owner Bruce Enloe (photo, below) of The Branch restaurant in Kemptville, who served home-made sliced potato deep-fried in beef fat (above) and topped with a chili-spiked, rich garlic aioli reminiscent of the kind of pungent, garlicky spread that normally embellishes a good Lebanese schwarma. I loved it!
Below left, Stuart Collins of Bryson Farms with his heriloom tomato 
tart. Right, chef/owner Arup Jana 
of Allium.
I was also heartened to see first-timers out from the culinary class at Longfields-Davidson Heights Secondary School in Barrhaven, led by chef/teacher Kent van Dyk and paired with Les Serres de l’Outaouais of Gatineau, serving a most colourful and delicious heirloom tomato salad enlivened with watermelon with Clarmell Farms feta and pickled red onion. Hmmm, good.
Above, Tennessy Willems owner Chris Archer with Angela Stuart, paired with Hoople Creek Farm of Ingelside with lamb two ways (photo, below): open-faced on home-made soughdough, and braised with corn, maple and arugula.
So much to sample, so little time. The photos here and in the slide show below may give you a little taste.
Above, students from Longfields-Davidson Heights Secondary School with chef/teacher Kent van Dyk and principal Patsy Agard, at right. Below, their colourful heirloom tomato and watermelon salad, teamed with Les Serres de l’Outaouais of Gatineau.
Above, roast beef sirloin on romaine with pickled asparagus, truffle and horseradish aioli, garlic chives from chef Che Chartrand of Café Chez Eric, Wakefield, teamed with Dobson’s Grass Fed Beef of Cobden.
